This morning I glued up BH2 and BH3, this time precoating the pieces with straight up epoxy and then mixing a thicker glue with the silica which makes me cough like the dickens, hopefully that stuff isnt setting up in my lungs. Things definitely went a little smoother this morning. One person over at the Storer forum suggested drilling small holes and dropping in some nails in the holes to hold the pieces laterally. I did exactly that this morning, and it works quite well, I am pleased with the result. Unfortunately, haste makes waste and I put one piece on upside down, so I turned it around and applied more glue after ripping it up, and a put another piece down 180 deg. of what I wanted, but it works in that position anyway but not as aesthetically pleasing, so I left it in place. The side arms on BH3 also extend all the way up beyond the ply, and I precoated the whole arm even though that was unnecessary. Oops. One more BH to go, and then I can tackle that transom.
Showing posts with label bh2. Show all posts
Showing posts with label bh2. Show all posts
Sunday, May 29, 2016
Thursday, May 26, 2016
Ahoy mateys!
Another bunch of small items taken care of over the past few days to share with you.
First up, I decided to bite the bullet and glue those gunwales on. Pretty much the whole show was waiting for this to happen. Ive also decided to delay gluing on the rear seat until I get the rudder hardware. Technically, the rear seat should be glued down along with the front seat, and then the gunwales, and then the spacers at BH4... However, everything fits really nice, and the boat is dialed in really sweet. Id rather just have the space to work with rather than screw around through an inspection port to get my rudder installed.
The gunwales, as you may remember, were already clamped into position and screwed in place to suck them in where need be. I carefully removed the gunwale, left the screws in position in the sides, and coated everything with epoxy. Then, I mixed up a bunch of glue, made it quite thick, and coated it on the gunwale. With the bow end propped up on a bench, I screwed in the stern, and worked my way forward. I then inspected the gunwale for gaps above and below the sheer. The gaps on the underside of the gunwale can only be corrected really with screws. Fortunately I had my can of ply-backed screws nearby, and added a few more per side depending on where they were needed. A line of packing tape kept things nice and clean.
Then, I decided to throw in the side arms for BH2 and 4. It had come to my attention through the Storer forum that the side arms for BH2 are oversized. I had cut mine like the others, and theres not enough gluing area for this high stress location. This was a bummer, because my sidearms were really nicely shaped with a good fit. I whipped out some cedar, traced the old BHs down, and in a few minutes had new sidearms. You can see the difference below.
Tonight, I glued up the starboard inwale spacers. They fit so nice, only a little bit of glue is needed. Some very gentle playing with the clamps and some thick glue and I got every spacer to sit where I wanted it. PHEW. It takes two hands per spacer but theres a definite feel how to get them to stay in position so they dont float.
Heres a nice picture of my boat with her gunwale glued on, and planed to match the ply. Shes looking good!
AND, heres a quintessential boatbuiling pic that I swear was not staged. Clamps, hand planes, shavings, inpsection port, this picture has got it all.
Another bunch of small items taken care of over the past few days to share with you.
First up, I decided to bite the bullet and glue those gunwales on. Pretty much the whole show was waiting for this to happen. Ive also decided to delay gluing on the rear seat until I get the rudder hardware. Technically, the rear seat should be glued down along with the front seat, and then the gunwales, and then the spacers at BH4... However, everything fits really nice, and the boat is dialed in really sweet. Id rather just have the space to work with rather than screw around through an inspection port to get my rudder installed.
The gunwales, as you may remember, were already clamped into position and screwed in place to suck them in where need be. I carefully removed the gunwale, left the screws in position in the sides, and coated everything with epoxy. Then, I mixed up a bunch of glue, made it quite thick, and coated it on the gunwale. With the bow end propped up on a bench, I screwed in the stern, and worked my way forward. I then inspected the gunwale for gaps above and below the sheer. The gaps on the underside of the gunwale can only be corrected really with screws. Fortunately I had my can of ply-backed screws nearby, and added a few more per side depending on where they were needed. A line of packing tape kept things nice and clean.
Then, I decided to throw in the side arms for BH2 and 4. It had come to my attention through the Storer forum that the side arms for BH2 are oversized. I had cut mine like the others, and theres not enough gluing area for this high stress location. This was a bummer, because my sidearms were really nicely shaped with a good fit. I whipped out some cedar, traced the old BHs down, and in a few minutes had new sidearms. You can see the difference below.
Tonight, I glued up the starboard inwale spacers. They fit so nice, only a little bit of glue is needed. Some very gentle playing with the clamps and some thick glue and I got every spacer to sit where I wanted it. PHEW. It takes two hands per spacer but theres a definite feel how to get them to stay in position so they dont float.
Heres a nice picture of my boat with her gunwale glued on, and planed to match the ply. Shes looking good!
AND, heres a quintessential boatbuiling pic that I swear was not staged. Clamps, hand planes, shavings, inpsection port, this picture has got it all.
Thursday, April 28, 2016
A bunch of small items were taken care of today despite my continued head cold and heavy congestion. Sneezing and coughing and snotting all over my boat was a great experience, really.
Anway, All the BHs are beveled, I notched the top frame on BH3 where the middle 90mm was supposed to have never been applied (room for centerboard case), and I cut and traced out the timber for the stem. I also cut the holes into the BH 2 and 3:
Theyre still rough, I havent sanded them smooth or even yet. You may notice I went for the trapezoidal shape on BH2, this was at first done because I was a little nervous doing circles with the jigsaw a la transom. After I did it, I thought, damn, that looks bad. But then I realized that without the curves I can stuff more equipment (picnic basket, wine, beer) in that forward space between BH1 and 2. So I liked that, but then I waffled back to cutting a bigger hole to get curves. At this point my wonderful wife wandered in as I sat perplexed, and she gushed at how imaginative I was for mixing and matching shapes for the holes and how great it looked.
The trapezoid stays, gentlemen.
Up next:
Anway, All the BHs are beveled, I notched the top frame on BH3 where the middle 90mm was supposed to have never been applied (room for centerboard case), and I cut and traced out the timber for the stem. I also cut the holes into the BH 2 and 3:
Theyre still rough, I havent sanded them smooth or even yet. You may notice I went for the trapezoidal shape on BH2, this was at first done because I was a little nervous doing circles with the jigsaw a la transom. After I did it, I thought, damn, that looks bad. But then I realized that without the curves I can stuff more equipment (picnic basket, wine, beer) in that forward space between BH1 and 2. So I liked that, but then I waffled back to cutting a bigger hole to get curves. At this point my wonderful wife wandered in as I sat perplexed, and she gushed at how imaginative I was for mixing and matching shapes for the holes and how great it looked.
The trapezoid stays, gentlemen.
Up next:
- Shape and finish the dreaded stem
- Cut timber and scarf chinelogs
- Apply re-enforcement on transom for rudder
- Cut notches on BHs for chinelogs
- Coat all BHs with epoxy (I may do this later because Im getting impatient to see the boat)
- Glue up the sides
- Touch up with the plane
- Screw it all together for a dry fit in the garage
- Freak out as I try to find a warmer place than the garage to put it for the winter so I can work on it.
Sunday, March 27, 2016
Today was a surprisingly uneventful day in the my personal Goat Island Skiff world. Ive been stumbling around lately trying to get traction on a number of projects, some held up by other projects that needed to be completed. Two large steps forward happened today.
First: I wandered into Goose Bay Lumber haphazardly and found 4 pieces of 20 x1x4 finished Douglas Fir boards. All of them were straight, maybe three knots in the bunch, and relatively nice straight grain to boot. Just four, all four were good, I grabbed them. These will be my mast that powers my vessel. I had them cut to 15 8", since the mast is just a smidge over 15 6" tall, this gives me an inch of "oof" space. Also, they had a 15" planer, I had my daggerboard, and we fed it into the mouth of the machine. It spit it out a little thinner, and nice and smooth on one side. The planer was not a precision machine, and while I can lose 0.75mm, Id rather do that by hand than take out a huge chunk or something. But it helped.
Second: I called my bro-in-law and he was home, with his 13" planer. I strapped my mast bits onto the roof of my sedan in a fashion that screamed "I will impale the person in front of me if you rear-end me" and roared up the interstate to the second planer. In short order I planed my rudder down to the requisite 22mm and it came out amazing. Then, away I planed my mast stock down to the 1/2" it needs to be. Back on the roof with a little less mass and a little more wobbliness and back to my garage where I trimmed the trailing edge of my blades and got them ready for shaping.
So I need to shape the rudder, to make the rudder box, so I can install the rudder hardware to the boat, so I can finally glue down the rear seat. Then, daggerboard so I can glue down the centercase. Then, make the mast, make some spars, and then I can start finishing my boat. One day, one step, at a time.
First: I wandered into Goose Bay Lumber haphazardly and found 4 pieces of 20 x1x4 finished Douglas Fir boards. All of them were straight, maybe three knots in the bunch, and relatively nice straight grain to boot. Just four, all four were good, I grabbed them. These will be my mast that powers my vessel. I had them cut to 15 8", since the mast is just a smidge over 15 6" tall, this gives me an inch of "oof" space. Also, they had a 15" planer, I had my daggerboard, and we fed it into the mouth of the machine. It spit it out a little thinner, and nice and smooth on one side. The planer was not a precision machine, and while I can lose 0.75mm, Id rather do that by hand than take out a huge chunk or something. But it helped.
Second: I called my bro-in-law and he was home, with his 13" planer. I strapped my mast bits onto the roof of my sedan in a fashion that screamed "I will impale the person in front of me if you rear-end me" and roared up the interstate to the second planer. In short order I planed my rudder down to the requisite 22mm and it came out amazing. Then, away I planed my mast stock down to the 1/2" it needs to be. Back on the roof with a little less mass and a little more wobbliness and back to my garage where I trimmed the trailing edge of my blades and got them ready for shaping.
Heres my mast stock. Hmmmm Hmmm delicious stock.
So I need to shape the rudder, to make the rudder box, so I can install the rudder hardware to the boat, so I can finally glue down the rear seat. Then, daggerboard so I can glue down the centercase. Then, make the mast, make some spars, and then I can start finishing my boat. One day, one step, at a time.
Monday, March 14, 2016
The epoxy on the chinelogs took well, the scarf is a success as far as Im concerned. Once I sanded down the excess epoxy the joint looks clean and tight, Im happy with the result. Today I placed the chinelogs in position onto the sides of the boat. I did things a little opposite because Im by myself and I was trying to make the operation go smoothly and precisely. I placed the bow piece 5cm back as dictated by the plans, with 1cm overhang the bottom edge, and screwed it in place. I placed a total of 6 position screws that are not designed to provide the clamping power, I used clamps instead. I get the feeling that the plans call for screws to be pushed through from the outside of the hull, but I felt Id have more control over the chinelogs if I did everything facing them. I was careful to place the screws in hidden locations, behind BHs, in watertight tanks, etc. I have pretty much 1cm throughout the length of the side, with a few locations with 1mm variations, of which Im ok with. A pre-coat of epoxy, then thickened epoxy application, clamps, clean up (difficult), and viola:
All I have left to do now is put together that stem and I can do a dry-fit.
All I have left to do now is put together that stem and I can do a dry-fit.
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